|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
Cognac: Divine Spirit By Darryl Beeson |
| ||||||
|
The Cognac region provides diversity in its land, the best are called "champagnes," with chalky soils. The relative humidity is strongly influenced by the closeness of the Atlantic. Yet the region has the sunshine needed for the top quality wines. The word "champagne" is an old term used to describe tracts of land. In Cognac, the Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne are areas, or growths, which produce the finest eaux-de-vie. A Fine (feen) Champagne cognac is composed exclusively of Grande and Petite Champagne, with a minimum of 50 percent of Grande Champagne. These "champagnes" are not to be confused with the sparkling wine from the far north of France. These divine spirits come from the south of France, in fact, south of Bordeaux. Approximately 90 percent of the vineyards are planted with Ugni Blanc (uh-nee blan), in a lowering and lowering combination with Folle Blanche and Colombard grapes. All of these white grapes have high acidity and a low alcohol content and are perfect for Cognac distillation. Ugni blanc is another name for the Italian grape known as trebbiano. This might be my least favorite white wine. Thus the magic accomplished by the gifted producers of Cognac. An eau-de-vie becomes Cognac through aging in specific oak barrels. One of the finest coopers, i.e. a producer of refined barrels, is their local Vicard. The results are magic. The spectrum of toasted oak derived-complexities is mind-boggling (m-nd bog-leeng). For example, the famous cellars of Otard's Chateau de Cognac, with three-meter thick walls, guarantee a constant temperature of 15°C and an exceptional level of 90 percent humidity, being adjacent to the wide Charente river. Thus the balanced and complex taste of Otard Cognacs. All Cognac producers tell the story regarding a part of the eaux-de-vie stored in the cellars that evaporates off quite naturally. This is poetically called "the angels share." For Otard, this is the equivalent of 300,000 bottles of their precious Cognac per year. That is quite a tear-full loss. Remy Martin (rem-ee mar-tan) is said to be the top-selling VSOP in America. VSOP stands for very superior old pale and is the real starting point for quality Cognac. The notch down for all Cognacs is VS, better suited as a cocktail mixer or for fine cooking. Remy is famous for the tres expensive Louis The Thirteenth. Who says thirteen is not lucky? The price per portion in a restaurant may approach $200. The bottle price at retail exceeds the value of my used Volvo. Tasty, but this requires a liberal expense account. Go for it if you can. Courvoisier Cognac offers a rich history in the region. Though they make top-class brandies, they are not too snooty to suggest the entry level Cognacs as great cocktail mixers. For example, try the more affordable Courvoisier Cognac in a classic Cosmo recipe with cranberry juice. The added complexity will be noted. Otherwise, bump up to the VSOP, XO, Napoleon or if gifted, the Initiale for the connoisseur. Those should be served in a snifter or fine wine glass. By the way, never heat Cognac except with the warmth from your hand's palms wrapped around the glass. Just a short list of more of the finest Cognacs includes Pierre Ferrand, Hine, Hennesy, Courvoisier, Tesseron (big at Harrods in London) and most especially Frapin. This list is not complete. This writer will keep investigating. The five distinctive aromas for describing Cognac are vanilla, prune, caramel, orange and apricot. Of course there are a myriad of others. Recently, an aroma wheel of descriptors for Cognac was crafted. It differs from other wine versions in that it categorizes aromas by seasons. Cognac’s subtle floral notes recall spring, while it offers more assertive notes of apricots, citrus and exotic fruit, similar to a warm summer’s day. Autumn’s is reflected by spicier notes of ginger, licorice, vanilla, and caramel followed by assertive winter scents of coffee, tobacco, toast, cedar, and even sandalwood scents of coffee, tobacco, toast. Says Cognac representative Jerome Durand, “Not only do Cognac styles range from fresh and light to rich and deep, one’s appreciation of any Cognac will be different in different circumstances. It seemed to us that as the Aroma Wheel is designed to help consumers better understand and appreciate Cognac’s complex flavors and aromas, and help professional such as sommeliers and educators guide the public in this.” The amateur can enjoy the wheel as well.
Consider Cognac’s exotic aromas during the holidays. Perhaps mix
Cognac in cocktails as an aperitif, or serve it as a digestif with
dessert, the flavors of Cognac make a great combination with holiday
foods, such as smoked salmon, rich foie gras, creme brulee and even
gingerbread. The aromas
add complexity and depth to cooked dishes, from turkey gravy, to
meat terrines and chocolate truffles. |
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
| Back to CocktailAtlas.com | |||||||
|
Visit other F&B Travel Atlas sites:
|
|||||||
clear liquid. Aging in barrels offers the addition of
tawny brown color. Cognac comes from the specific wines of the
Cognac region in France. In other words, all Cognacs are brandies,
but not all brandies are Cognacs.