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After the long flight to Lima, Peru, John and I arrived at the
Sonesta El Oliver tired and weary. In front of the Sonesta, El
Oliver, the tranquil park filled with olive trees planted by the
Spanish many years ago, brightened our spirits. Our mood improved
even more when, upon check in, we received a coupon for a
complimentary Pisco Sour, the signature cocktail of Peru.
It didn’t take long for us to get settled in
our room and head to the lounge for our Pisco Sour. While Eber
Cuestas prepared the cocktail, he explained how it is made. Into
the shaker went three ounces of Pisco Ocucaje, one ounce of lemon
juice, one ounce of liquid sugar, four cubes of ice, and one egg
white. He shook it vigorously and poured the frothy mixture into a
glass and added a drop of Angostura Bitters. It was a wonderful
welcome to the Sonesta and Peru.
“You know Chile claims they invented the Pisco
Sour.” I told Eber.
With a chuckle Eber said, “Not true! In fact
they buy the Pisco grapes from us and the drink is named for the
port of Pisco, which is in Peru!”
We spent the next day exploring Lima. For well
over an hour, at the Presidental Palace on Plaza Mayor, we watched
the most amazing changing of the guards. Along with the traditional
troops in their red and blue uniforms, the miltary band played,
horses pranced and performed, and a horse-drawn carriage arrived led
by an honor guard on horseback. Ladies in colonial outfits
disembarked from the carriage and performed a traditional dance with
the horses. It was spectacular!
A few days later we were in Ica, south of Lima
and near the port of Pisco. In Ica many vineyards grow the grapes
used to make Pisco. We visited the Catador Winery where they have
been preparing Pisco for more one hundred years. Our guide,
Jessica, led us through the entire process from picking the sweet
grapes to the way they mashed, pressed, filtered, fermented and
distilled the old fashion way. A century ago, it took six people
stomping ten hours to mash 12,000 kg of grapes. The juice was
then
pressed, filtered through a woven basket and drained into clay
containers where fermentation took place. Even today, Catador
distills in the traditional way by boiling the liquid in huge clay
pots, which results in three parts: the head, the tail and the
body. After all, Pisco means flying bird. The body becomes the
Pisco; the head and tail are mixed and used as a cleaner. We
refrained from the invitation to stomp on the grapes, but some
visitors just couldn’t resist. Instead, we accepted the invitation
to visit the shop to try a Pisco Sour and other Pisco products.
A few days later we were back at the Sonesta
where Eber once again prepared our welcome Pisco Sour. We sipped it
with a new appreciation for the process that went into making the
refreshing signature cocktail of Peru.
Visit
www.sonesta.com and
www.go.to/elcatador.
Sandra Scott is a frequent
contributor to travel publications and to Creators Syndicate
and has co-authored two books on local history. She lives in
Mexico, NY.
Photos by J. J. Scott.
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