Cognac: The Drink of Kings

By Carole Kotkin

Only a few hours by train from Paris, the modest town of Cognac is a place where brandy lovers can indulge their taste in the drink of kings—Cognac—the rich, smoky liquid that has brought world renown to this little city.

Like many old French cities, Cognac, with a population of about 20,000, is a photographer's delight with its blend of contemporary and ancient architecture. Its old town is full of quaint two- and three-story stone houses that line winding, cobblestone streets. Cognac is also the birthplace of a 16th century king, Francois I, whose sprawling Chateau Valois, open to visitors, retains its ancient flavor. The old town centers around the Romanesque church of St. Leger, whose 16th century spire reaches above the surrounding tiled roofs. To the east of the church, begins modern Cognac, with its shopping district and charming cafes. The town is also blessed with the lovely Charente River, once a water source for the major cognac houses. The vineyards radiating from Cognac offer pastoral vistas. The winding rural roads offer startling views of hillsides studded with enormous chateaux built by wealthy cognac barons.

For travelers, a visit to Cognac is a feast for the palate. The distilleries, many of them housed in luxurious mansions, provide tours and tastings to 200,000 visitors each year.

Wine has been produced near the banks of the Charente River since the 13^th century. In the 16^th century, the Northern European shippers who traveled in this region stopped to buy salt, a necessary commodity to preserve food, also filled their ships with wine. The only way Charente vintners had to compete with other French wine producers was to beat them at the tax game. Since tariffs were levied on wine by the barrel, the Charentais could ship more wine with less taxation if they reduced it by distillation. The wine would later be reconstituted by adding water. Dutch distillers trading in the region at the time shared their expertise with local producers. They showed them how to send the wine through the copper still not once but twice. Soon Cognac country winegrowers were making a spectacular eau-de-vie that took Europe by storm. It was not aged; it was sold as a clear alcohol with a punch. In the 1700s traders began to stock surplus production in oak casks, imbuing it with amber hues, velvety flavors and that earthy aroma that comes from aging. Thus aged, the color, aromas, and taste of this "burnt wine" (or brandy) found a following and became known by the name of the main port from which it was shipped. In that century, too, the great cognac houses got started: Martell, Remy Martin, Hennessy and others.

There are currently more than 300 cognac houses in and around this area, each with widely differing styles. The secret to cognac is neither in the grape nor in the distillation but in the chalky, sticky soil of the Cognac region, which yields a grape high in acid. The majority of Cognacs are blends of aged brandies distilled from grapes grown in two or more of the six, adjacent growing districts of the Cognac region, called crus. The most highly prized of these crus, valued for its gray-brown, chalky-lime soil, is the Grande Champagne (champagne connotes chalkiness—not the sparkling wine). Nearly 18 percent of all Cognac is produced in this region. Brandies from Grande Champagne are typically the most expensive because of their rich, full bouquets and multi-faceted character. Cognac produced by Frapin at Chateau Fontpinot is the most wine-like of the great cognacs. Like great Bordeaux, it is chateau-bottled, which means that it is made exclusively from grapes grown on the vineyards surrounding the handsome chateau, and it is distilled and bottled on the estate. Chateau Fontpinot is the largest singly owned property in Grande Champagne.

The next cru in stature is Petite Champagne, from which approximately 20 percent of all Cognac is produced. The soil in this region is lighter in color and contains a lower concentration of chalk. Petite Champagne brandies lack some of the intensity of those from the Grande Champagne region. When a Cognac blend contains brandies from both regions, with more than half originating in Grande Champagne, the Cognac is labeled as a Fine Champagne Cognac, a designation created in 1938. Since 1724, The House of Remy Martin has been making Fine Champagne Cognac and today produces 80 percent of all Fine Champagne Cognac shipped from the region.

The smallest of the crus is the Borderies. Its brandies are soft, round, and highly valued for use in blending. Camus is the fifth largest firm in Cognac and the biggest still owned by the founding family. For its best Cognacs, the company relies on the family’s estate in the Borderies.

The Fin Bois region surrounds these regions. Nearly 40 percent of all brandies produced in the Cognac district come from Fin Bois, and they too are prized for their ability to add fullness and dimension to the finished blend. One of the newest Cognac houses is Leopold Gourmel, founded in 1961 by the franchisee for Volvo and Fiat in the region. Leopold Gourmel Cognacs are made from ripe grapes grown in the Fin Bois. Courvoisier Cognac, established in 1843, is made using spirits from Grande and Petite Champagne, Fins Bois and Borderies aged from six to twelve years and can be recognized by its golden amber color and vanilla and spice aroma. The Bons Bois and Bois Communs produce brandies principally used in blending.

Younger Cognac is generally fruity with notes of citrus that mellow out in 10 years or so to mature vanilla flavors with spicy notes and nutty flavors highlighted by jasmine at 20 years. Some Cognac houses even have brandies in casks that are older than a century—which are very low in alcohol content but extremely high in flavor and viscosity—from which they can select to blend magnificent Cognac.

Cognac production labors under some restrictive French laws. Distillation of cognac may not start before the end of November, and must be completed by March 31. The grapes must come from the region and only three varieties of white grapes can be used—Ugni Blanc, Colombard and Folle Blanche. However, 98 percent of all cognac today is made with the juice of the Ugni Blanc grapes. The spirit also must be distilled in a traditional pot still and aged in Limousin oak. If these and other strict laws are not followed, the resulting spirit may not be called Cognac.

The making of cognac is a labor of love. A cognac can mature in oak casks for decades, with the wood's porosity allowing a small amount of cognac to evaporate, known as "the angels’ share." Over time, cognac develops an attractive flavor (floral, fruity bouquet) and subtle aromas of spice, honey and vanilla. After the aged cognac reaches its peak, it is transferred into glass demijohns to stop the aging process. It then awaits the attention of the Master Blender, who, by blending flavors, tries to produce a cognac that will satisfy any cognac connoisseur.

Cognac labels bear no age statements. Typically, however, brandies carrying a VS designation have been aged between four and seven years. VSOP cognacs are usually aged for five to 13 years, while XO, Extra, Napoleon, Vielle Reserve or Hors d'Age Cognacs range in age from seven to 40 years.

These enormous age spreads account for much of the individuality and distinctions between Cognac houses. To make a good Cognac takes years and to make a great Cognac takes decades; but to create an exquisite Cognac takes centuries. There are rare samples of time in every bottle of the best Cognacs, probably a few drops from Napoleon's day in the early 1800s, not to mention a few swirls from Cognac's huge export boom of the 1860s. Cognac makers with stocks of ancient Cognacs will use them harmoniously. A.E. Dor is best known for its fabled stock of historic brandies, many brought by M. Dor soon after he had founded the firm in 1858.

Today, Cognac is a mega-business. More than a hundred million bottles are shipped each year to 150 countries. While France has increasingly become an important market for Scotch and bourbon makers, the country consumes only 5% of cognac production. The US receives 40 percent of the production. Japan and other Asian countries, Britain, and Scandinavia are among the largest Cognac markets.

Cognac is also a versatile spirit that can be enjoyed in many ways--as an aperitif, as an after-dinner drink or as part of a mixed drink.

Visit www.cognac.fr for list of Cognac producers, tastings, and tours.

Photos by Carole Kotkin

Carole Kotkin is Food Editor for The Wine News magazine and writes a syndicated food column for the The Miami Herald that appears in 400 newspapers. She co-hosts the weekly Food & Wine Talk program on WDNA 88.9 FM in Miami.

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